Region's wine reputation soars after late finish to South Gippsland wine harvest
An extended harvest season for local winemakers caused by a prolonged stretch of cooler weather which delayed the ripening of the region’s signature cool-climate grape varieties has resulted in exceptional fruit quality.
A STUBBONLY cool autumn pushed the South Gippsland wine harvest right up until the end of April this year, testing the patience of local vignerons who were forced to wait on nature to deliver the perfect vintage.
The extended season, caused by a prolonged stretch of cooler weather, delayed the ripening of the region’s signature cool-climate grape varieties. However, local producers report that the slow burn has resulted in exceptional fruit quality.
At the heart of this patient waiting game was the Gippsland Wine Company, based just outside Loch village. The business started as a small, neglected vineyard at Loch that was brought back to life by the passion of vigneron and owner Mark Heath.
While the original plantings focused on Chardonnay, Sangiovese, and Cabernet, the business has undergone rapid expansion. Heath has since established vineyards at Jeetho and Moyarra, alongside a new vineyard site at Loch boasting fresh plantings of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
“We currently have 30 acres under vine,” said Mr Heath, reflecting on the ever-expanding scale of the operation. The region’s distinct geography plays a vital role in the distinct flavour profiles of the wines.
Gifted with beautiful red soil and grey loam at Loch, the terrain is perfectly suited to premium viticulture. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and local varieties of sparkling wine, crafted in the traditional method with a secondary fermentation in the bottle, have all thrived in these conditions.
The secret is well and truly out, with wine lovers noticing how accessible the boutique region has become. “People are now realising how close we are to Melbourne,” said Mr Heath, noting a steady rise in cellar door visitors seeking authentic, cool-climate tasting experiences just a short drive from the city.
The Gippsland Wine Company is far from alone in elevating the region's viticultural status. South Gippsland is rapidly turning into a premium wine hub, with several players making their mark locally and abroad.
Acclaimed producers like Dirty Three Wines, Bass Phillip, Fleet Wines, and Purple Hen Vineyard and Winery on nearby Phillip Island have all proved immensely popular.
Together, they are fast gaining a formidable international reputation for expressing the unique, maritime-influenced environment of coastal Victoria. This year's extended harvest meant a gruelling waiting game for the final parcels of fruit.
The very last variety to be picked this year at the Gippsland Wine Company was their Cabernet Sauvignon. Local Wonthaggi-raised, award-winning winemaker Marcus Satchell refused to rush the process, waiting deliberately for the perfect balance of sugar and acid in the grapes before calling the pickers into the fields.
Cultivating grapes in this picturesque pocket of Victoria does not come without its specific environmental hurdles. One of the primary issues in Gippsland is the high humidity, which creates persistent moisture in the canopy and can easily lead to outbreaks of powdery mildew.
To combat this, meticulous vineyard management is required. According to Mark Heath, the perfect year would be a warm, dry summer to assist with even ripening and keep disease pressures at bay. Despite the seasonal hurdles, the Gippsland Wine Company is now consistently harvesting well over 30 tonnes of fruit each vintage.
Although the operation remains relatively small on a commercial scale, the philosophy remains fiercely focused on quality rather than quantity. That dedication to excellence is paying off handsomely in consumer demand.
The vintages currently proving highly popular with the public are the 2024 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, alongside the highly regarded '24 Fumé Blanc, which is primarily sourced from the rolling hills of the Moyarra vineyard.
The standout Fumé Blanc recently enjoyed a massive boost on the world stage, receiving the ultimate royal nod of approval. “Our Fumé Blanc was one of five wines chosen for a lunch in Melbourne for King Frederik X and Queen Mary of Denmark,” said Mr Heath proudly.
As the last of the late season pick rests safely in the barrels, South Gippsland’s winemakers are closing the book on a long and demanding but ultimately rewarding harvest.
